Toyohashi Alpine Club
Mountaineering in Japan
Yari-ga-take (3180m)
North Alps, Japan
October 1996
Report by Malcolm Field
Party: solo climb
The alarm had been set to sing its electronic whine for 2 a.m. sharp. There was no need, however, as I had woken at 1:45 willing and ready to go. I was packed. I felt awake. I needed only to make some coffee for the journey, indulge in one in the comfort of my chair whilst watching the final round of some gold tournament in the States (very exciting stuff - but it sure beats baseball), and cart the eternally heavy pack to the car and head off on the well traversed Route 41 to the Kita Alps.Yari had been one of the mountains that seemed to be a prerequisite to being an official member of the Club. It was, after all, probably the first big mountain in Japan that had been climbed by the original members of the Club - if my history is correct. I alone seemed to be the one who had yet to grace its summit - not that that was the motivating factor but it was a point to be considered. Actually, Darren (Canadian Chapter) and I had set off to climb it a few months back but due to some fancy footwork by none other than myself, it had to be canceled.
This second attempt had been on my calendar for about three months. It was the only long weekend that I could get away on. Moreover, I hoped it would be late enough in the Autumn season to ensure visitation (to see the colours at Takayama and Shin Hodaka Ropeway) would be at its lowest. This however, created a new problem in itself - one that I wasn't too pleased about either. The Huts were all closing on the Sunday (it didn't matter that Monday was a public holiday and closing in the middle of a long weekend made perfectly good sense to everybody but me). That meant that I was going to have to cart up my `car only' tent and `car only' emergency trusty sleeping bag up the mountain. I had succumbed to this as this was the chance to do Yari. Fortune smiled on me and there was one hut to remain open on the Sunday night but it was 40 minutes from Yari toward Kamikochi. I was in it.
The weather was wicked on Thursday. Friday was worse. The forecast wasn't looking positive but I remained so. Saturday night and the weather began to clear and so did the forecast. However, I had developed some kind of gum infection that had left me like a wounded bobcat as I growled at everybody and everything because of the pain. My right upper gum had swollen up and it was nigh on impossible to eat anything other than Weetabix. Furthermore, my old war wound on the left knee flared up because of the running I had been doing. But, I was determined that these were all little obstacles to test my resolve and keep my from achieving this personal goal - to get the monkey off my back so to speak.
Route 41 at 3:45 a.m. is always a joy to be on. The traffic lights are all amber flashing and the corners are just wonderful to keep you on your toes as you double the speed limit through them (not that that is such a difficult feat to do in Japan - actually it is - during the daytime when there is always somebody obeying the 40kph speed limit). I did meet a few cars (and dreaded sightseeing buses traveling in packs - but no demon tucks) but they quickly dispensed with at the frequent overtaking lanes. I was through Takayama by six, and at the Shin Hodaka Ropeway - well a little beyond - by 6:45.
The path up to Yari started at the Ropeway (area) and followed the west side of Alps up to the Yari Sanso. The start was less than 1200 metres and so in all I had nearly a 2000 metre elevation climb. The map times suggested more than eight hours so I figured I could do it in five (ha ha silly Mal).
The first section just followed the access road up for about an hour or so until it abruptly stopped at a river crossing and the path began in earnest. For the next hour and half the path meandered through the Alpine Forest over lots of slippery rocks due to the previous wet days and the falling leaves. The conditions reminded me a lot of hiking in winter in the highlands near Brisbane.
This forest section ceased at YariDaira (Hut) the halfway point of the route - in distance not elevation). From here, the route began to get steeper. To deviate a little, I met a couple of chaps who were marking out a new route to Yari which they were going to do in winter. I examined it carefully as I continued on my way and found that some spots would be a little more than polar plodding in two metres of snow. Good luck to them. They actually wanted me to join them on their days hike but I declined as I had my own goals to achieve first.
At first the route got a little steeper. I pondered that I would surely be on top in five hours if this was all it was going to be. Then it got steeper and I encouraged myself to do the hour before breaking. I achieved that and reached the next checkpoint on the map well ahead of the scheduled time. I was really enjoying the day our and stopped to try and take a few self portraits. (Luckily I borrowed Katsuko's instamatic camera as mine did it's usual trick and packed it in under the cold weather - though it has been more than six months since I changed the batteries - and I knew it was time so it is really my mistake). The first was a bit of a disaster and the second none better but it was good practice for later.
Before setting off I looked up and ahead to see the path to be traveled. It looked a little steep - a bit steeper than Yatsu - but nothing to get too excited about. I set off as bold as Punch. Fifteen minutes later I was beginning to talk myself on and up. "C'mon Mal. On and up. One hour. Polar Plod. You can do it. He's slowed down!" and the rest of the chit chats. After about one hour of this, I needed to break. I was really feeling the climb. The altitude was affecting my speed...at only about 2700+ metres too. A drink of water, a few plans about the report (since forgotten) and off again. A few downward travelers bounded past saying their polite "ohayo gozaimasu's" and probably thinking `poor bugger... he's only just beginning the hike up there'. I pressed on.
Some thirty minutes later I hit the wall. I was rooted. I was plain and simple rooted. I then made the unenviable mistake to look up and see how far it was to go. It was a bloody mile and I was not impressed. The nearer my destination the more I was slip sliding away. A few expletives and I plodded on vowing never to look up again. (What a joke that was). On one of my `brief' glances upward, I caught sight of a few people near the ridge and was definitely encouraged to press on. Upon reaching that point (some fifteen minutes - grueling fifteen minutes mind you) I was shocked to find I had yet another rocky knoll to get over before I reached to Yari Sanso. I sucked in a few deep breaths, bit my tongue and plodded on.
Upon arrival at the Sanso, I was surprised to see about twenty or so people either coming from another direction or already with tent and brew established. I looked to the Yari climb and figured relaxing (indeed required) and putting a brew on to warm up (indeed definitely required as it was a little nippy). My legs immediately tried to cramp up but I caught them before they seized and did some very painful stretching. I then gulped down two cups of coffee, half an instant ramen, quarter of a Mars, a muesli bar, and some Energy Jelly, as I watched some people climb up and down (some very gingerly) Yari. I was satiated and I was motivated and full of energy again.
The final 150 metres is the infamous Nippon Matterhorn. If only they knew that the real thing is 10x as high doing the same with no chains or ladders. It was all very fun though and I was on top in about ten minutes - passing a few straggles on the way. In fact it was over so quickly I tried to figure what all the fuss was bout. Later, when I saw some pictures of Yari in winter, I began to appreciate what they have to do in winter conditions. It would be a nice challenge if I had somebody who was experienced or I could trust and know. Another story. On top were a few other climbers and they were too happy to oblige with the photography - luckily as my self portraits were not a big success.
I didn't hang around long on top - about fifteen minutes only - as I had to press on to the hut. I could see it way down the slope and it was a good warm up for the muscles for the downward journey the next day. The Hut was a little expensive but I figured it would be worth it to get a good nights sleep.
At first, when I could steal some extra futons, my nights' sleep looked like it would be wonderful and comfortable. After a really good meal, I returned to my self made bed and dropped off quickly. At about nine, I was startled awake by some others clambering up into the same area. Alas, there was going to be five in with me - the result being that I had to pull apart my very warm and comfortable bed. Thereafter, I could have been sleeping in a tent on the hard ground freezing my butt off. It was f#$%&@g cold and ridiculously so. I had all but my thermals and ski jacket on (i.e. Polar 200 Fleece pants, jacket and socks) and still I was freezing. Some of the other guests even had their North Face Down Jackets on and still they were cold. It was cold. I guess about minus five to ten as the ground had turned to ice.
Once awake - again not hard to do with alarms going off at five a.m. (but no-one venturing into the cold) and the lights going on at about half after. I changed into some thermals, and my hiking clothes and went outside. The view was spectacular as the sun rose over Fuji. The whole valley below was clear with a few covered in a morning mist and Fuji peered over and around the top end of the Southern Alps. It looked so great on its own and so big. I regretted not having my camera working as it might have done some justice to the scene. The little camera just didn't do it justice. I was impressed and quickly went back inside to get my gear and head back up to Yari for a better look. It was great - as was the new route I took going back up there.
I boiled the billy and made a brew in the minus temperature and admired the morning. I was truly blessed to have two such superb days of weather (the day after returning the rain came again). I considered traversing across the Northern Alps through to Kita Ho but as no Huts were open, I figured it best to head back down and enjoy the day.
It was a relaxing walk back (all five hours - and half less than going up to the top). I met a gaijin couple who were on their way up who live near Anjo. As I had no meusli I gave them my name and workplace and asked them to call me for future climbs. They, the poor buggers, had camped at about 2700m and were still thawing out. They were from Canada so I joked that they should feel at home to which they gave me a wicked stare. We chewed the fat a bit and I left them to hike their heavy packs (with crampons and picks they had brought on recommendation from a Japanese person. For the record, I had instep crampons but as I had seen a picture of the Alps a few days before, I didn't think I would need them).
Back at the car I made another brew and relaxed and considered the last 36 hours. Thereafter I headed home, getting caught in the bloody traffic between Takayama and Gero (2.5 hours) and after getting our o that between Nakatsugawa and Tajimi on the Chuo (1 hour). The return trip home took six hours and I was lucky. The news said the jam on 41 got worse.
It was a safe and blessed trip on all fronts. No accidents, no mishaps, great weather, my gum infection disappeared, my knee behaved until I got home, and even though it was cold and hard at night - like a tent - it saved me some weight. Thanks.
